The Gracious Host: Welcome to San Francisco

San Francisco has held a magical allure for me since my first visit—a school trip way back when.

As our pre-teen filled rental bus crossed the Bay Bridge, I peered out the window to catch a glimpse of the iconic “Port of San Francisco” sign along the Embarcadero. It was a calling card to me, one that invited me to imagine making San Francisco my home.

I’m not the only person who dreams of The City by the Bay. It’s visited every year by thousands of tourists who flock here to experience San Francisco.

There may be more facets to San Francisco than there are tourists who visit. One could have a downtown retail shopping trip, a food tour of restaurants and wine or take in the museums and historical sites. Of course, most first time visits include the usual suspects: Ghirardelli Square, Alcatraz, cable cars, Fisherman’s Wharf…you get the idea. The options are endless.

As a long time San Francisco City dweller and frequent host, I feel a personal responsibility to show visitors the best of San Francisco (and frankly, get them out beyond the usual suspects mentioned above). To assist, I’ve put together a #DesignLife Map to share some of my favorite places. This is by no means meant to be an exhaustive list and I would never attempt to capture all of San Francisco’s magic in a single map or blog post.

To get you started here are a couple neighborhood detours for your next visit. I’ve selected them to coincide with some of the usual suspects that are likely already on your list.

Before you venture out don’t forget to pack layers, our resident celebrity Karl the Fog likes to surprise guests with a quick weather change. Now, let’s get you “local” ready for your next SF adventure.

Near North Beach/Chinatown/Financial District

First up is not a surprise, it’s books! Of course there would be at least one bookstore on my list of places to visit. This is a popular one that you’ll see on most tourist guides to San Francisco. There’s a reason. City Lights books and publisher is ground zero for the Beat movement and has been a “literary meeting place since 1953.” Inside this historic bookshop you’ll find familiar titles among the esoteric and obscure. I can spend hours here reading back cover blurbs and considering the possibilities of which books I plan to carry home. If you’re so inclined, it’s an easy addition to your North Beach or Chinatown itinerary. Give yourself permission to just browse, or pick up a few titles to take home.

Feel like some retail therapy? A few blocks and a seemingly different century from City Lights, is Hotaling Place. It’s the oldest alley in San Francisco, and the waving parallel lines etched in the pavement mark the old city shoreline. It’s in the shadow of the Transamerica building and as an added bonus offers up-close views of this architectural gem. Nearby you will find an assortment of retail shops and restaurants that could fill an afternoon. For a leisurely lunch, Cotogna doesn’t disappoint. Grab a reservation and if the weather is nice, or you are wearing a warm sweater, request an outdoor table for some sidewalk dining. And of course when you need a little afternoon pick up, there’s a nearby Blue Bottle Coffee for a shot of espresso and a sweet treat.

If a big meal isn’t for you, take a short walk to the Embarcadero. Head south along the water, enjoying views of the Bay Bridge and grab a casual lunch at the Ferry Building. Once you’re fueled, you have another opportunity to do some retail sightseeing in this historic building.

The Golden Gate Bridge Detour: The Presidio and Presidio Heights

Most guidebooks will recommend walking the Golden Gate Bridge, and I don’t disagree. However, I would suggest getting dropped off on the north side of the bridge. The bridge is longer than you think and this hack not only cuts the distance in half, you will walk back facing the city views. Don’t make the rookie mistake of not taking layers, the weather can change in an instant and the wind coming from the Pacific Ocean can be cold.

While you're in the neighborhood, why not explore the Presidio National Park? There are hiking paths, weekend festivals, restaurants, museums and even a Yoda Fountain. Want to combine hiking and art? Meander through the eucalyptus trees alongside Andy Goldworthy’s “Wood Line” installation. If all this bridge walking and art hiking is making you hungry, try out one of the restaurants located in the National Park, like Presidio Social Club, or Colibri. You can dine in style admiring the historic buildings.

A short distance away on Sacramento Street (between Broderick and Spruce) you can get your design shop on. In the past few years creative types have opened outposts on this tree lined street in Presidio Heights. This is a definite #designlife destination. You can stroll the streets and pop into the boutiques to admire the home goods or find a fabulous frock from one of the clothing stores. 

Be sure to make a stop at Hudson Grace to browse their selection of coffee table books and well curated home accessories. Pro tip: if you do this before the hike, you have to carry what you purchase! 

Reserve a table at Spruce, or take your chances with a bar table late afternoon. Their comprehensive wine list and unique cocktails are well respected. If you want secluded romance, make a reservation at Sociale for an outside garden table and chat about your day while making plans for the rest of your trip over some delicious pasta and Italian wine.

The Castro/Civic Center/Haight Ashbury Detour: Hayes Valley

If you’re researching your trip beforehand, you may find Hayes Valley on a list or two. It’s a somewhat new addition as more visitors get hip to this local neighborhood. Up until the 1989 earthquake, a freeway exit ran right through the middle of this neighborhood, and now it doesn’t. This opened up room for a park where there is a small playground, chess tables and usually a large art sculpture that has returned from Burning Man.

This revitalized neighborhood has something for everyone. Get your shop on, sip a smoothie, go to happy hour at a butcher shop, people watch in the parklet, compare espresso flavors, sample chocolate or wander down side alley’s and admire the street art.

If you still have room in your suitcase, this is the place to fill up. Head over to Maker & Moss. If you can’t fit the vintage furniture in your carry on, check out the candles, art and other home accessories. Worth a look is MM Clay, owned by Mary Mar Keenan who designs and makes beautiful ceramic tableware in her tiny Airstream trailer studio. Her pieces make thoughtful gifts for those friends and family who wished they were with you in San Francisco.

The Original Blue Bottle Coffee is located in an adjacent side alley and if you ask nicely, you might get your coffee in a proper cup to take to the park. Just remember to return it. If one isn’t enough, you can get a second cup at Ritual Roasters which is located across from the park in a repurposed shipping container. Or maybe a Fresh pressed juice is more your taste, try the next shipping container over, where the Juice Shop is located.

Feeling like you need to refuel with a little something-something, there are a myriad of options to satisfy your cravings. For a mash-up of flavors, try Monsieur Benjamin for a taste of France meets California, or Papito for a culinary mash-up of Mexico meets France. Or if you are looking for a truly San Francisco restaurant, try Rich Table which offers a unique take on California cuisine in a casual yet elegant space.

For a sweet end to a long day, nothing beats the beautiful creations at Miette Bakery. Or if chocolate is your love language, then Christopher Elbow is where you need to go. The chocolates are almost too beautiful to eat. Almost. They are also one of my favorite gifts to bring to friends.

It makes me happy to welcome visitors to my adopted city. San Francisco is one of those diverse places where you can curate your experience to suit your interests. It just takes a little planning. And perhaps a few detours suggested by a friend. As you discover new places, please send them my way.

Happy Exploring!

PS – For those that love Jefferson Airplane and want to see their famous crash pad, go here.

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Collecting Books: A Love Story